The bevels cited below are good starting points. So once the base edge bevel is set, maintain it as long as possible using diamond and gummi stones. If you need to resurface past this point, you may need to stone grind the base to bring it back to flat so you can re-establish the base angle. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel. Once you set the base edge angle, you can't go back to the original because of the base material. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. This is a good starting point for beginning J4/J5 racers.īase Edge Thoughts The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to pivot on the snow. General recommendation for serious racers and J3/J2 level.ĩ0 Degree Edge Bevel A 1 degree base bevel and a 1 degree side bevel give a 90 degree total edge angle. This gives more grip on hard snow surfaces. This will be explained in detail below it is mentioned here as not to be overlooked.Īcute Edge A side bevel that is higher in degree than the base bevel gives an acute angle. After you set your edge angles once, reduce edge wear by using diamond or aluminum oxide stones to routine sharpen. You are looking for a base that is consistent along its length, neither high nor low compared to the edges.Hold a true bar to the ski at 8-10 points along its length.Remove rough areas on the top surface (over the entire length) of the ski/board with 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.Take the working file and round off the edges, then smooth with 220-grit Silicon-Carbide (SiC) sandpaper and polish with 400-grit SiC. Make your tips and tails aerodynamic (not the edges, but rather the actual top/bottom of your ski/board tip or tail).Use this file for odd jobs and save the new one for your edges. Buy a new file each year and mark the old one with a "W" for "working" file.
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